Tignes

A journey of about 1,400 km by car. We split it into two parts.

First, the first capital of Italy

It had to be a city where neither I nor any of my fellow travelers had been before. It needed to be located about two-thirds of the way to Tignes. It had to seem cool. Those were our criteria. We chose Turin.

From one evening and one morning, we brought out the maximum. Dinner in a local restaurant. The menu was solely in Italian, the staff didn't speak English. No tourists around. Among other things, we ate a local specialty, Vitello tonnato, a dish that bridges the sea and the mountains, as it consists of veal in a tuna (and anchovy) sauce. House wines from jugs and small glass cups. A fully local experience.

I walked around the city at six thirty in the morning. The light rain had cleared the streets of even the few people out. The center of Turin, though modernized, is steeped in history. It's all in stone and built with style. It even has the most elegant intercoms I've ever seen (of course, I forgot to take a picture). I insisted on having an espresso in the most local café possible and thus found one in the very center, not listed on Google maps. That's it. A large marble bar lined with brown wood, crocheted doilies on the display case with croissants, chairs like those in a cabaret... the spirit of past only disturbed by a coffee machine that looked like it came from space, but it made such coffee that it was forgiven. Behind the counter, a middle-aged lady who wasn't much interested in conversation once she heard me speaking English.

With the espresso, I also got something like a cup with lukewarm water, which I suppose is meant to extend your coffee if you wish. I drank it. I also witnessed a charming scene of recreational flirting, as an elderly gentleman in a coat leaned on the bar and began to throw lines in melodious Italian. The lady approved with smiles. The charmer even drank his espresso at the bar, but then settled down at a table in the corner to flip through newspapers. What happened next, I don't know, as my fellow travelers woke up, and it was time to continue the journey.

• Note: if you're ever in Florence, Milan, Turin, Rome, Venice (but in California), Las Vegas, or New York and love sandwiches, head straight to All’ Antico Vinaio. Don't let the kilometer-long line deter you (sometimes you wait for an hour). Of course, we had breakfast there.

Now, skiing

Tignes has its own app - Tignes. On it, you can see all the lifts and slopes, marked whether they are open or not, where the restaurants, toilets, viewpoints, parking lots, etc., are... there are also cameras showing weather conditions at 8 locations. Through the app, you can also find out about transportation options and the schedule of shuttle buses that run throughout Tignes all day for free, which greatly eases the situation if you're on foot, or dead tired (or drunk) after a lunch break and don't want to ski to your accommodation. These are the options I used. The app has many more.

Tignes+Val D'Isere ski pass

Covers 300 km of slopes. There's also a ski pass just for Tignes, but it's only 5 euros cheaper and significantly reduces the mileage.

Ski pass, half-day (from 12:45-17:00) - 54 euros

One day - 66 euros

Six days + the seventh day free - 396 euros.

For children from 8 to 18 years and seniors 65-75, prices are reduced. For those under 8 and over 75, the ski pass is free. (I've seen those over 75 smoothly make their run)

There are no discounts on ski pass prices until you buy the ski pass for 6 days, when you get the seventh for free. Then you also get access to the "Lagon" wellness complex, which has a 25-meter pool, saunas, steam rooms, jacuzzis, and a gym...

The most useful information about ski passes for me is that there is a machine next to the hotel where you can buy a ski pass at any time of day or night. This is cool if, like me, you only ski in good weather. Every morning, check the sky, the forecast, and the cameras on the slopes. If everything is okay, head straight for the ski pass vending machine.

Our accommodation was in the village of Tignes 1800. Hence, we slept and woke up at an altitude of 1800 meters. Meaning, in the morning on the terrace, you breathe in health. The name of the hotel is Residence Club MMV L'Altaviva, and it has everything necessary for a quality ski trip. In the basement, each apartment has its own ski locker which locks with a room card. From there, you exit directly onto the slope. Next to the ski room is a shop for renting (or purchasing) equipment. The spa consists of a jacuzzi, sauna, steam bath, and pool. It's excellent, but it's only used for 45 minutes by appointment. Appointments after 4 pm are charged.

Skis + boots for 7 days cost 130 euros.

The slopes are numerous and phenomenal. Besides being well-groomed, they are very wide, clear, and well-marked. The mountain is beginner-friendly. There are many green slopes for learning. Blue slopes are numerous and well-distributed, so you can ski nearly to all the cafes, restaurants, and other meeting places. Of course, there are also red and black slopes for those who like more adrenaline. It seems that at every step, there is some viewpoint offering views of the snow-covered Alps and the villages in their valleys, so there are as many photo opportunities as you wish. From the village La Daille, you can take the metro directly to the slopes at 2827m, which is an interesting experience.

In the village Tignes 2100, there's also the option of paragliding. As everywhere, you fly in tandem with an instructor, but here both of you are on skis. I didn't go, but I've tried paragliding in summer conditions and am pretty sure this one in winter is spectacular. It costs around 90 euros and you land right in the center of the village, so right after the ride, you can continue onto the slopes or for a coffee.

Ski instructor for one hour - 65 euros.

Two hours - 120 euros.

Three hours - 180 euros.

Four hours - 240 euros.

Full day (7 hours) - 350 euros.

There are many ski schools and instructors, and these are the cheapest prices in Tignes that I managed to find.

Skiing from a different perspective

First, let me confess. I went to France and did not eat either fondue or raclette. We saved this hedonism for the last days of the trip and painfully learned that in Tignes' restaurants (especially on weekends), one should book a table at least a day in advance. We called almost all of them, even walked to a few, trying to get a table on the spot. We received a sympathetic smile and apology. So, instead of the delicacy of melted French cheeses with white wine, I ended up with buffalo wings and beer. I treated my frustration with the conclusion that both fondue and raclette are actually Swiss dishes.

I ate cheeses every day. Mostly Bleu de Savoie. I adore moldy cheeses. Alongside it, I tried Beaufort, a firm cheese with a mildly sweet taste, one of the most famous in the region. It was so good that I took some home. Creamy Reblochon also ended up in my bag, as did the mild Tomme de Savoie. To confirm that nothing is perfect, a particular Camembert turned our idyllic apartment into a sauerkraut barrel with its aroma. It ended up on the terrace.

There are wines of all sorts as much as you want. I think the overwhelming choice made me less inclined to drink them, although I wasn't particularly in the mood for alcohol. In such relaxing moments, I drank rum and smoked cigars, considering that both originate from Havana, not Tignes, I will write about them another time.

There aren't too many cafes and restaurants on the slopes. They are decent, offering everything needed for a break, refreshment, energy recharge, and to continue skiing. The side of the mountain belonging to Val D'Isere has much richer content of this type. I highlight the Belavarde cafe, from whose terrace there is a view of pristine slopes and alpine peaks. Upon entry, a hostess greets you and seats you, if there's a free table, so there's a chance you might have to wait for a spot on the terrace. Their coffee isn't up to the ambiance, other drinks are good, and if you catch a sunny day, you can truly feel like you're in paradise for a while.

La Folie Douce, also part of Val D’Isere, is the most famous place for après-ski activities on the entire mountain. It is the original La Folie, as five more have been opened in French ski resorts after it. It is considered the best après-ski bar in all of France. Besides the good energy, music, and drinks, it is characterized by spectacular stage performances and acts. Useful information for those better at partying than skiing: you can reach La Folie from Tignes via the blue slopes. There is also the option of gondolas for pedestrians. I didn't visit it. Call me a pensioner.

I went on this skiing in mid-March. That means longer days, warmer weather, and a lower risk of blizzards. The sun allowed for surreal landscapes, sitting in a cafe in a T-shirt, sun-kissed skin. Lip balm and sunscreen are a must. For two days, the sky was completely blue, like something out of a fairy tale, but when you're skiing at about 2800 meters, around 1-2 pm, it can become so warm that the snow turns rather mushy. It seems that the ideal for March is a sunny day interspersed with white clouds. We had that too.

Personally…

I can't help but feel that Tignes is the perfect place for skiing which lacks a bit of soul. Nothing concrete can be faulted, it has everything needed but… you don't feel the desire to spend the whole day in a cafe, everything closes very early in the evening, there aren't any particularly beautiful places for a stroll, people are mostly family locals who ski during the day and then shut themselves away in accommodations, preparing food, watching TV (rarely anyone has curtains 😊). Everything is scheduled, everything is charged, even the reception works in two shifts, giving the impression that none of the staff is actually there…

...none of these reasons are anywhere near enough for me to say that the winter vacation was unsuccessful, on the contrary. I had a fantastic time, just occasionally missing that hedonistic component. So, holiday 9 out of 10. Skiing 10 out of 10.